A Guide to Climbing in El Potrero Chico, Mexico

If you’ve ever dreamt of scaling towering limestone cliffs, munching on post-send tacos, and narrowly avoiding existential crises on exposed multipitches, then El Potrero Chico (EPC) is calling your name. Nestled in northern Mexico near the small town of Hidalgo, EPC is a climbing paradise packed with endless bolted routes, breathtaking views, and enough adventure to keep your palms sweating long after you leave.


But first, let’s talk logistics, because getting here shouldn’t feel like navigating a choose-your-own-adventure book where every wrong turn ends with you explaining yourself to a border agent.


Getting to El Potrero Chico


A. Flying In (For Those Who Value Speed and Sanity)

Your best bet is to fly into Monterrey International Airport (MTY), which is about an hour’s drive from EPC. Major airlines fly here regularly, and you can find affordable fares if you book ahead (or are willing to gamble on the whims of budget airlines).


Our Skoolie happily nestled at Finca El Caminante 

Once you land, you have a few choices:

  • Rent a car: Gives you flexibility, but driving in Mexico isn’t for the faint of heart. If your reflexes aren’t honed from dodging rogue taxis in your hometown, maybe reconsider.
  • Book a shuttle: Several local climbing accommodations offer airport shuttles, which are the easiest option if you’d rather relax and count cacti on the way.
  • Public transportation: Technically possible but involves multiple buses, questionable transfer times, and the patience of a saint. Proceed if you enjoy character-building experiences.


B. Driving Down — We went this route because we had the time, the Skoolie, and a desire to see more of Mexico.

If you’re driving from the U.S., the main entry point is through Laredo, Texas. Here’s what you need to know:

  • Paperwork: You’ll need a Temporary Vehicle Import Permit (TIP) and Mexican auto insurance. Don’t skimp on this—Mexican authorities take it seriously. Also, if your ride is over 3.5 metric tons (7,716 lbs) gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), you will get denied entry for the TIP! This happened to us on our first attempt, so we drove back to Maine and got our short bus Skoolie registered as an RV/Motorhome. That is the workaround for the weight limit rule…
  • Border Crossing: The Laredo-Nuevo Laredo crossing is the most direct, but be prepared for some chaotic traffic and occasional lengthy waits.
  • Safety: Stick to toll roads (cuotas) and drive during the day.



Climbing in EPC: The Good, the Great, and the “What Have I Done?”


EPC is known for its long, bolted multipitches, grippy limestone, and shockingly reasonable approach hikes. Here are some highlights:


Classic Routes You May Be Up For???

  • Treble Cone (5.9+): A fantastic warm-up to get acquainted with EPC’s style.
  • Space Boyz (5.10d, 11 pitches): A right of passage for many. Comfortable belay ledges, spectacular views, and just enough exposure to keep you humble.
  • Time Wave Zero (5.12a, 23 pitches): The ultimate test of your endurance, both physically and emotionally. Bring snacks. Lots of snacks.
  • Sendero Luminoso (5.12d, 15 pitches): Yes Alex Honnold free soloed this route in 2014!



Pro Tips for Climbing Here Without Regretting Your Life Choices

  • Start early. The sun here is not your friend after 11 a.m. unless you enjoy feeling like a rotisserie chicken.
  • Tape your fingers. Limestone can be sharp, and you’ll want to keep your skin intact for at least a few days.
  • Bring a stick clip. We didn’t, and many starts are spicy, and while bravado is cool, avoiding a ground fall is cooler.


Where to Stay: Dirtbag to Deluxe

  • Finca El Caminante! We stayed here with our bus and loved it! Eduardo you’re the BEST!
  • La Posada: A popular climber hangout with camping, cabins, and the all-important pool.
  • Rancho El Sendero: A quieter, family-run spot with fantastic food.


Post-Climb Grub and Rest Day Shenanigans

  • Tacos La Silla: Because tacos are a climbing superfood.
  • Los Pinos: For when you want a proper sit-down meal and a margarita the size of your face.
  • Hot Springs of Monterrey: Perfect for soaking away the soreness.
  • Grutas de García: Massive caves for when you need a break from vertical adventures.


Final Thoughts: Go, Climb, Eat, Repeat! El Potrero Chico is one of those places that sticks with you—sometimes literally (hello, cactus encounters). The climbing is stellar, the community is welcoming, and the post-send tacos taste like victory. Whether you fly in or road trip down, just remember: adventure starts where comfort ends. Pack your harness, bring your sense of humor, and get ready for an unforgettable trip.


See you on the wall (or at the taco stand)!




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